The Twisted Stitcher Tutorials

Making a Pincushion

2010-04-09T05:38:00.000-07:00

Gathering the finishing supplies:
1. Stitched piece (or material if you are making a non-stitched pincushion)
2. Base (I chose an antique Zinc Ball Canning Jar lid as called for in the pattern by Theresa Venette of Shakesphere's Peddler - she gets all the credit for incorporating the Zinc Ball Jar Lid - it is AN INGENIOUS idea! However, this same idea can be translated into many different things: a paper mache box, small basket, old measuring cup, wooden base, old tea cup - any thing can be used as the base for your pincushion and I've made pincushions using each one of these items. They are cute, folksy and a wonderful presentation!)
3. Crushed Walnut Shells (found in a pet store - sold in small to large bags as "bird litter" or "lizard litter")
4. Tacky Glue and a Glue Gun
5. 6 strand DMC embroidery floss (for sewing and for making cording)
6. Scissors
7. Fusible interfacing
8. Scrap mat board
9. Pen or Pencil and a marking pencil

STEP ONE: Draw a circle around the design that is about 1.5 -2 inches larger (from the edge of stitching)

Taking your piece of mat board place on flat surface, place your base on top and trace the shape of the bottom of the base onto the mat board

Cut out both pieces, make sure that the mat board piece will fit into the base easily, if not trim some off all the way around. It does NOT have to be perfectly circular, just close.

STEP TWO: Cut out interfacing to match the size of the stitched fabric and iron on (I use light weight craft fusible interfacing made by pellon). I believe this to be a necessary step because it gives stability to the piece and also holds all the crushed walnuts inside (they don't work out of the weave of the linen).

STEP THREE: taking all 6 strands of a length of DMC Floss, thread a Chenille needle (or large eye needle) and make a running stitch 1/4 inch from the edge all around the entire piece.

STEP FOUR: Lay the piece face down onto a flat surface, place a scant 1/4 cup of crushed walnuts on top of the interfacing (if it is too much you can let some out as your work your piece together), place the circle of mat board down on top of the crusted walnuts, hold down the whole pincushion sandwich and start to pull gently on the end of the floss as shown below:

STEP FIVE: Lace around the bottom back and forth from each side to give a little shape to the pincushion, as shown, then end off. *HINT* sort of mold the walnut shells around inside the pincushion to make the perfect dome shape PRIOR to ending off.

STEP SIX: Get your hot glue gun and put some glue in the bottom of the base. Then fit the pincushion part into the base part.

STEP SEVEN: Make some cording out of a coordinating color, lay a thin line of glue around the edge of the pincushion and using tweezers, gently place and tap down the cording until it lays perfectly and you have a beautiful pincushion of your own to admire and love :o)

GOOD LUCK!

DMC Floss Organization

2010-03-23T10:11:00.000-07:00

Things you need:

DMC floss
Plastic Bobbins - I prefer plastic over cardboard because I can use them over and over and they never bend or break
DMC metal bobbin rings - *tip* these metal rings are the perfect match for use in floss tags because they are 3/16" and they fit all the grommets used with a crop-o-dile!
Scotch Tape
Scissors

STEP ONE: pull the paper ring with the DMC number off the floss bundle

STEP TWO: cut off the number part

STEP THREE: pinch the number and cut in the black area right below the number

STEP FOUR: place on top right hand corner of bobbin and tape

This is what it will look like:

STEP FIVE: wind your bobbin with the color of floss

STEP SIX: repeat until complete, place project bobbins on DMC bobbin ring

NICE, ORGANIZED and when your project is completed - all you have to do is file them numerically in your organizer of choice! Mine is an antique reproduction thread chest:

How easy was that?!

Pretty Easy!

Rusched Ribbon

2010-03-01T06:59:00.000-08:00

Gather Supplies:

Ribbon - your choice of kind, your choice of width
Needle
Thread that is in complimenting color to ribbon chosen

Step One: Thread a needle with a long piece of thread. Knot the end. Now, using a running stitch, zigzag back and forth along the width of the ribbon - making little "triangles" like shown in picture:

Step Two: Gently (so as not to break the thread), bunch the ribbon downward toward the knot - what results is beautifully rusched ribbon!

Continue in this manner, until your length of rusched ribbon goes completely around your finished item. Make a knot on the other end and then fold over the ribbon (just a bit) on both ends and tack into place to make a beautiful length of rushed ribbon with perfect ends. Attach to the item you are embellishing with your method of choice.

Vonna's Flat Wool Felt Mounted Ornament

2010-02-23T08:17:00.000-08:00

Gather your supplies:
1. Wool Felt: choose two different (or one) color(s) that compliments your design. I get wool felt off the bolt at my local Joann's, but if you can't find it, I have purchased from this excellent source online: Wool Felt Central. Or you can just use felt sheets from a craft store the choice is yours!

2. Scissors
3. Aleene's Tacky Glue (or white craft glue of choice)
4. Complimenting Ribbon for hanger and bow
5. Acid Free Mat Board
6. Rotary Cutter with "WAVE" blade (or pinking shears or a pinking rotary blade)
7. Needle and Thread (complimenting the ribbon color so that it is invisible)

STEP ONE:
Measure your stitched piece and determine the amount of "free space" around your piece that you wish to have. (On mine I chose 1/4 inch, this made my mat board cuts 3 1/4 inches x 3 1/2 inches.) Cut the mat board out and mount the stitched piece onto the mat board (I did not use quilt batting on the mat board, put it can be used if you prefer it -myself, I like the whole thing to look "flat" for these being mounted onto the wool felt). Glue the edges to the back until your piece looks like this:STEP TWO:
Take the newly mounted piece and place (do not glue - just lay it down) on the first color choice of wool felt, then rotary cut along a 1/4 inch margin around the piece. Until it looks like this:

**HINT**: to get corners that look nice, put the apex of the "wave" (the point of one) on each corner before you start cutting. Do one side having the point of a wave on the corner - cut to the next corner, turn, line up the point of the wave on the second corner cut, turn, and so on....

STEP THREE:

Now take the wave cut piece and lay it down on the second color of wool felt. And rotary cut around the sides.

**HINT**:

This time to get the "waves" to be "off set" (yes, I'm anal) put the point of the wave blade on the top of the wave wool cut already (in photo see that the point of the rotary blade is matching up to the point of the wave already cut out?) Line up, cut, turn, line up cut, turn, etc as done in the previous step. See how the "waves" are offset?:

STEP FOUR:

Cut a length of ribbon for a hanger and glue to the back piece (make sure it is centered appropriately or it will not hang straight!). Glue your mounted piece onto your first wool piece:

STEP FIVE:

Glue top piece to the back piece. Cut a length of ribbon, make a simple bow and sew onto the ornament. Put the ornament inside a plastic bag (to protect it) Leave the top "unzipped" so that the ribbons and bow can hang out and not get crushed) then but a heavy book or something on top so that it all dries flat and smooth:

~~Pat yourself on the back, 'cause that's one snazzy ornament~~

Vonna's Twist on the Floss Tag Tutorial

2010-02-11T12:30:00.000-08:00

**disclaimer: this is how I finish my floss tags for personal use, gifts and how I finish them for clients who use my finishing service. I do not claim that this is the only way to do it, this is just my own personal way that I came up with to obtain the look and feel of the tag that I personally like and wanted to achieve**

What you need:

Acid Free Mat Board
Mack Knife
Cutting Mat
Ruler
Pen
Crop-o-Dile (or some sort of grommet setting device)
Grommets
White Glue (my preference is Aleen's White Craft Glue)
Floss Ring
Scissors

*NOTE* Crop-O-Dile grommet setters are used for scrapbooking typically. You can find them at any craft store (Hobby Lobby, Michael's, Joann's, etc.) Save your 40% off coupon and get them for about $15-18.

STEP ONE: measure your stitched piece adding how ever much you want to the right/left and bottom sides (personally I add an extra 1/4 to 1/2 inch to these sides) add 1 inch to the top of the piece for the "tag" part. Cut out the appropriately sized piece of mat board X 2 for top and back.

STEP TWO: now measure down 1 inch from the top and draw a line:

STEP THREE: at the center draw a line down the middle:

STEP FOUR: depending on the size of your tag from the center line measure 1/4 (up to 1/2 inch for larger tags) make a mark on either side. Then using your ruler connect the side line to the top line as shown:
STEP FIVE: Cut off the corners following the cut lines drawn above and using this first shape as a template, line up the pieces and cut the other piece to the same shape as the first piece:
THEN, you have the front and back tag pieces!

STEP SIX: mount your stitching piece straight onto the mat board by centering and gluing edges to the back. I like to line up the top of my stitching with the corner I cut for the top "tag" part:

STEP SEVEN: do the same thing for the back material piece:

NOW, you have two tag pieces FRONT and BACK!

STEP EIGHT: take your crop-o-dile tool and center the hole punch part inside the top "tag area" and punch:

STEP NINE: using the top portion as a template use a pen to mark where the hole should be punched on the bottom tag:

STEP TEN: line up the mark with the punch hole and punch:

STEP ELEVEN: now get your grommets and crimp them on the front and the back tags using the crimping part of the crop-o-dile:

STEP TWELVE: put some glue on the inside of the tags and paying attention to lining up the grommet holes, sandwich together. It is a good idea to then place the tag under some weights to make sure that the tag is glued together and very flat. After a couple of hours, pull out the tag, place it on a ring and there you go ~ one beautiful floss tag to use for your stitching or give as a gift to a special friend :)

NOTE: you may also add twisted cording, chennile trim, bows, rusched ribbon, etc around the edge of the tag if wanted to "doll it up" a bit.

Glue Guns

2009-10-28T06:23:00.000-07:00

I've had a couple of e-mails asking me about the use of glue guns on needlework or finishing work. My personal preference is Aleene's white, clear drying, craft glue for general use. I do *not* use a glue gun on any of my projects. period. Why? Here's just a few reasons...

dries in lumps, so that when you feel your finished work you can "feel" a line of hard glue thus this does not create a perfect, seamless finish because you can feel of hard glue
dries too fast...so if you don't have something centered correctly or you want/need to move it...TOO BAD its glued for good
if you are able to pry it off, you have to pick off hard glue and it never truly is "back to original" Aleene's glue you can dab at with a wet towel and it will be gone (if it is still wet - if it is dried...too bad)

I'm not saying glue guns don't have their place in crafting...I use them frequently for other crafts and manipulations, just not with my needlework finishing. This is my opinion only...some other people may use glue guns with great success, but I prefer white craft glue.

Blackbird Stockings Series...

2009-09-18T09:48:00.001-07:00

*Permission given By Alma Allen of Blackbird Designs for use of printed instructions from the stocking booklets and for my putting the steps into pictures for visual enhancement.*

NOTE: Blackbird Designs instructions are in italics. My personal hints are in normal text.

Finishing Instructions for Blackbird Designs Stockings

STEP ONE:

Make a template of the stocking from the provided template in any of the Stocking Pattern Booklets. Use the template and cut out one piece of fusible interfacing and one reversed.

*What I do is place the fusible interfacing directly on the page, I use a pencil and draw around it, cut it out and then flip it so that the toe points the other direction (this is because you'll need an opposite for the backing fabric) trace around it with a pencil and cut it out. Make sure that you do this on the same side of the interfacing...REMEMBER one side of the interfacing has glue on it and this is the side you'll iron to your stocking front and back. (HINT: Usually the glue side is shiny.)

STEP TWO:
Center one piece of the fusible interfacing on the reverse side of the stocking. Match the toe, heel and top of the stocking to the template. Iron the Fusible interfacing in place. Cut out the stitched piece adding a 1/4" seam allowance. Leave a 1/2" seam allowance at the top of the stocking. Repeat the above process for the backing fabric.

*What I use for my backing fabric is the same linen I stitched on. BBD uses complimentary sewing material.

STEP THREE:
Finger press the seams to the wrong side on both the stocking front and back. Lightly press. Pin the stocking together front to the back; wrong sides together. Use a coordinating thread and whip stitch the stocking together. Fold the 1/2" seam allowance at the top to the inside of the stocking.

*I also, clip my fabric at all the curves, so I can achieve those lovely curves in the stocking, then I finger press and press with my iron as I go, making the curves - I do this for both pieces. Then once all the curves have been clipped and the seam allowances pressed, I press the entire stocking really good one last time before sewing together. After I turn the top seam allowance into the stocking, I press the top to make it all straight and flat.

EDITED to anwer some questions: No,I do not sew down the folded top seam allowance. It is 1/2 inch long and that is long enough to fold over into the stocking, iron it and it stays in perfectly. Plus when you sew the hanger on...that holds it in too. The instructions that BBD wrote and the added hints that I give are exactly how I finished mine to achieve the look. If its not in the instructions, then I did not do it.

STEP FOUR:
To make the stocking hanger, use beading thread and needle; string the beads together until you have a 6" length. Tie off and stitch the hanger to the stocking.

*I didn't use the called for beads, I went to Michael's Craft Store and purchased seed beads in their jewelry making section. Doing this allows me both instant access and I can choose colors to match my stockings. There are lots of colors available.

FINISHED and ready to decorate your home!

A Sincere "Thank you" to Alma and Barb of Blackbird Designs for allowing me to put their instructions to pictures to share and help those of you that are visual crafters!

How To Frame Your Needlework....

2009-07-07T14:58:00.001-07:00

Framing Supplies
1. Frame
2. Foam Core cut to size of frame (acid free)
3. Glazing Points
4. Nickle Plated Pins (I use sequin pins) - nickle plating means the pins will not rust
5. Masking Tape
6. Double Sided Tape
7. Brown Backing Paper
8. Hanging Hardware - short shank screw eyes, stainless steel braided wire, frame bumpers, saw tooth bar hangers (if not using the screw eyes and wire).
9. Flat Head Screw Driver
10. Hammer
11. Ruler and/or measuring tape

Frames
I get my frames at my local Michael's Craft Store or Hobby Lobby Craft Store. I can get custom made frames and use their 50% off coupons on the total cost of the frame. You don't have to have the item "completely" framed (blocked, stretched and finished) to use the coupons. They will accept the coupons or will honor their 50% off framing events if you just purchase the custom frame only. I will also let you in on a little hint - ***Go ahead and ask them to cut the foam core to size for the frame (this saves you having to buy a big sheet of it yourself and the headache of cutting it) and ask them to put in the Framing Points (or Fletcher's Points) into the frame (these are the tabs that bend up and down to hold the piece in the frame). They will do this for free or if they do charge it is usually just for the cost of the foam core piece and is minimal.

I don't get glass with my frames because (and this is a personal choice) I like my stitching to be able to breathe. I know it has been debated over and over, but this is what I choose to do. Many people will ask about dust, and all I do is attach my upholstery attachment to my vacuum and vacuum over the piece once in a while if it is dusty. I also do not place my stitching pieces in direct sunlight, so I don't have fading. If you decide you'd like glass in your piece (and they will ask if you want it and/or mats) ask them to give you spacer tubes so that when you are framing you can place these spacers between the glass and the stitching - this allows there to be a small space between the glass and the stitching - so that the glass isn't pressed against the stitching enabling the stitches to be seen clearly and if you have beading or buttons there is room for them.

Step One:
Gather your supplies, I keep all my framing hardware in a large cookie tin so that I only have to grab one thing. I put down a couple of tea towels to work on, so that my frame doesn't get scratched when I'm assembling the whole thing together.

framing supplies

frame with foam core

sequin pins that I use

STEP TWO:
Begin to center your stitched piece on the foam core

Measure all four sides from the stitching edge to the foam core edge

Once the piece is centered, I place a pin on all four corners so that the stitched piece doesn't scoot around. I leave the pins in until I have some of the area stretched and pinned.

STEP THREE:
Start in the center and put in a few pins on all 4 sides pulling evenly so that it is stretched flat, but not pulled so much as to distort the stitching.

Keep adding pins along each side flipping from side to side to spread the tautness of the linen evenly. Frequently measure as you are doing this stretching and pinning to ensure that the correct spacing is being maintained. I cannot tell you how many times I have had to pull pins and redo this step! Measuring diligence is key!!!

Slow and steady progress, even tension in your stretching, wins the race :o)

Once all four sides look like this you are ready for the next step (before moving on to the next step, make sure you take final measurements of the margins making sure that it is equal on all sides and down the length of all sides - hold the piece out - visually check to make sure it looks "straight and squared". If something looks off - fix it NOW!)

STEP FOUR:
Lay your foam core mounted piece face down so it will look like this:

Using acid free masking tape (cheapest) or Artist's tape (same thing as masking tape just more expensive) fold the edges and tape down the excess linen to the back of the foam core - as shown:
NOTE: I have been contacted by a framing professional that has advised me that taping is NOT the way to tack the extra linen to the back of the foamcore, because supposedly the tape leaves a sticky glue residue on the fabric. She recommends lacing the fabric after pinning it.
I will reiterate, that I use an acid free/low tack tape and at times I have laced to keep the fabric under control in the back too. However, I choose to continue to use the tape. I am doing it (and you can see in the picture) on about less than 1/4 inch of my fabric. I always leave 3 to 4 inches of fabric on all sides. I am of the mind that it will last my lifetime and hopefully the lifetime of my children, after that...I don't care. So choose your poison on which technique to use. I personally think the tape is a nice, clean finish.

STEP FIVE:
Fit the mounted, taped down foam core piece into the frame

STEP SIX:
Now this frame wasn't custom, so I have to add Glazing Points (or Fletcher's Points if you have the Fletcher's Points Gun) these hold the piece into the frame tightly. Glazing points are CHEAP and they are used to hold glass into a frame usually, but they work just as well holding the foam core into the frame - if you get a custom frame this is what you will ask for put into the back prior to bringing it home.

Glazing Points

The Glazing points are put in with a flat head screw driver - just push them into the wood of the frame tightly against the foam core

STEP SEVEN:

EDITED TO ADD:

Some lovely ladies left me comments that you could actually wet the brown paper and then glue it to the frame with rice glue. Once dry the paper is drum tight. So I tried this. I cut the brown paper backing to size, dunked it in water until it was wet, then lightly dabbed it with a towel so that it wasn't dripping. I had put Aleene's craft glue (white craft glue) on the frame, just lightly not a whole lot and then put the paper on. Let it dry and it works PERFECTLY! Nice tight backing paper, sealed up wonderful! Thank you to Anna of The Stitch Bitch and Marie of Creative Thread for this wonderful technique!

~~~~~

Cut some brown paper into the correct size for the back of your frame, put a square of double sided tape on the backside of the frame

Put the brown paper flat against the frame to seal out dust from the back side and make the whole deal look neat and tidy!

STEP EIGHT:
Get your hanging hardware out (short shank eye screws and hanging wire - or if it is a smaller piece, I will mount on saw tooth bar hanging hardware - this is personal preference - each type works, you choose your favorite). The Screws usually just twist into the frame without using a drill, but I have had to use a drill on occasion to get it started. Place the eye screws in:

Once both screws are in then add the hanging wire, twisting it to make it taut:

I then cover my wire that is overlapped and twisted with a bit of masking tape and viola - your hanging hardware is on!

STEP NINE:

Add some frame bumpers

STEP TEN:

Admire your beautifully framed piece!

Beautiful!

The total cost of this frame job: $19.50 (I had a 40% off coupon)

Initial start up of gathering your framing supplies will add to the cost the first time, but after that your expense is only the frame. A economical way to enjoy your stitched pieces without the exorbitant price! And I think my framing looks as good as professionally done.

GOOD LUCK with your framing!

Basted and Baked Fabric Directions By Vonna

2009-01-16T09:13:00.001-08:00

Please go HERE

Making a Dowel Tree

2008-11-12T07:54:00.000-08:00

Gather These Supplies (to make 1 tree):
Wood Glue
Wooden Dowels in 3 different sizes (quanitites in parenthesis): 1/4 in (1), 5/16 in (1), 3/8 in (2)
One pre-milled Table Leg 28" (mine was: 28" Early American Table Leg)
One pre-milled Finial (mine was: Mediaum Craft Finial)
End Caps (for the ends of the dowels to make them decorative/hold the ornaments on - so they won't slip off the dowel)
Hand Drill
Drill Bits in the following sizes: 1/4, 5/18, 3/8
Saw
Bottom Piece for the stand (mine was cut from a larger board and measures 7 1/4" by 7 1/4"
Sandpaper
Measuring Tool/Square
Wood Stain
Hammer (optional)
Vice (usful - but not necessary)
*I got all my wood products at Lowe's and the total was around $35

Pictures of my Supplies:

End pieces for the dowels

Table Leg - Early American 28"

Bottom "stand" piece - 7 1/4" by 7 1/4"

Dowels in sizes 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8"

STEP ONE:

Taking your drill, but in the 1/4" bit (or one that will match the finial top screw) And Drill into what will be the top of the tree and attach the finial. (You can add a bit of wood glue on the end of the table leg if you want to ensure a firm attachment) Once completed set aside.

STEP TWO:

Cut your dowels with a small hand saw into the following lengths based on radius of dowels:

1/4" dowels: cut four into 5 1/2 inch lengths

5/16" dowels: cut four into 8 1/2 inch lengths

3/8" dowels: cut four into 11 1/2 inch lengths

Using your square/ruler make hash marks down the dowels at the appropriate lengths and then saw using your hand saw.

STEP THREE:

Using sandpaper - sand the ends of the dowels smooth

STEP FOUR:
Drill holes for the dowels. Each level of dowels will look like a "+" when you look from the top of the finial down. Make sure that when you are drilling the holes the various levels of + are staggered so that they aren't all on top of one other down the tree "trunk".

I put the 1/4 " dowels at the top, 5/16" dowels in the middle and the 3/8" dowels on the bottom.

*Here is where a vice would be handy if you have one!

Make sure that you go straight through the table leg and don't curve as you are drilling. All axis of the + should be perpindicular to each other. I have 7 inches in between the levels for my tree - just measure it and find the best locations for the levels of dowels for your tree.

STEP FIVE:
Once the holes have been drilled attach the base to the tree trunk

STEP SIX:

Drill small counter-sink holes into the decorative buttons or whatever you are putting on the end of the dowels of the tree. Don't drill through them, just enough to make an indention for the dowel to fit. Again I drilled four for each size of the dowel diameter.

STEP SEVEN:

Assemble your tree by using the wood glue to glue the dowels into their holes and the decorative end piece to the end of the dowels.

*Once finished with this step you should have an unstained finished dowel tree!

STEP EIGHT:

Stain it with wood stain, let dry, then add ornaments!

Now that's one fine looking dowel tree!

~~Congratulations~~ on your fine craftsmanship!

Cube Finish

2008-04-30T15:56:00.000-07:00

Materials Needed
Tacky Glue
Straight Pins
Quilt Batting
Styrofoam Cube (either one premade or one you cut to the dimensions needed)
Scissors
Iron
Ribbons
Complimentary Material
Pearl Headed Pins

STEP ONE:

Take complimentary material and make a strip that will go the entire circumference of your cube and cut it wide enough that you can fold it over a couple of times with the resulting width the same width as the side of cube.

Then make a strip of tacky glue down the side of the fabric:

FOLD over that side and then make a strip of glue on the top, bottom and side of the other edge of the fabric:

FOLD that edge onto the other folded edge and make sure that the width matches the width of your styrofoam:

Lightly iron with a hot iron to flatten and make the edge straight; then set aside:

STEP TWO:

Cut two pieces of quilt batting to fit the front and back of the styrofoam "cube". Lightly glue the batting into place on the front and back:

This is what it looks like when this step is complete:

STEP THREE:

Center your stitched front onto the front of the cube (to "aid" in centering...place some pins around the stitched piece embedded into the cube so the fabric will not move - they will be removed once the stitched piece is attached permanently to the face of the cube):

STEP FOUR:

Choose a "side" to work on and lay a strip of tacky glue down the center:

Place straight pins along the edge of the fabric to hold in place (these will pins will stay in place for the lifetime of your cube - do not remove!):

STEP FIVE:

Continue in this fashion glueing and folding the fabric around (like wrapping a present) all the way around the cube:

*HINT* don't be shy with using the pins they add stability (in my opinion) to the peice!

STEP SIX:

Remove the pins from the stitched piece face and now you have a mounted front!:

STEP SEVEN:

Do the back the same way you did the front either using a stitched "signature" square or using complimentary material (the same or different that you used for the fabric strip in step 1). Here, I used a signature square for my back face:

STEP EIGHT:

Lay a strip of glue crosswise on the top (or bottom of the cube) - Here I did it on the top, but in my thinking on making this tutorial, all will be hidden and not as much attention to detail for hiding pin heads if you do it on the bottom:

STEP NINE:

Place the strip of material on top of the glue line and pin down with straight pins:

STEP TEN:

Tightly wrap the fabric strip around the cube until you get back to the starting point:

STEP ELEVEN:

Lay another strip of glue across teh edge of the fabric starting place:

FOLD the edge of the raw edged strip over and press down into the glue (this will hide the pin heads from the previous step):

Here's what it should look like up to this point:

STEP TWELVE:

Add a fancy bow with ribbons and hold into place by using pearl headed pins:

Series of pearl headed pins I placed to make a design!

It's complete! You have a lovely stand-up Cube FINISH!!!!

LOVELY!

Making a Bow

2008-02-05T11:08:00.001-08:00

Materials Needed:
1. Ribbon
2. Scissors

STEP ONE:

Cut a length of ribbon off of the spool and set aside (you will use this later on)

STEP TWO:
With the ribbon still on the spool, leave a generous "leg" of ribbon and then make a loop:

STEP THREE:
Make a second loop on the opposite side:

STEP FOUR:
Make a third loop on the opposite side (the side that your first loop was on):

STEP FIVE:
Make your last loop on the opposite side (the side your second loop was):

STEP SIX:
Pinch the middle tightly together:

STEP SEVEN:

Leaving a generous "leg" cut the ribbon from the spool (the whole "bow" was made with the ribbon still attached to the spool):

STEP EIGHT:

Keep the ribbon legs on the same side and bunch the middle tightly:

STEP NINE:

Take the length of ribbon cut off at the beginning and place it on the work space, put the "bow" you are holding down on the work space in the middle of the length of ribbon:

STEP TEN:

Fold the length of ribbon in half (I have a pin holding it to my work space to take the picture - but this isn't necessary)

STEP ELEVEN:

Tie a double knot with the half length of ribbon:

and there you have a perfectly made bow!

*HINT*: This can be done with multiple lengths of ribbon (more than 1 ribbon); making more than two loops; different width, colors of ribbon...the sky is the limit!

*REMEMBER* This is not the only way to make a bow, this is just the easiest way I've come up with it. This tutorial are for those people that are struggling with a technique!

Tie - On Basket Lid

2008-02-05T10:00:00.000-08:00

Materials Needed:

1. Basket (if you'd like it lined (as shown) please see "Lining a Decorative Basket Tutorial" on this blog)
2. Stitched Piece
3. Mat Board
4. Quilt Batting
5. Tacky Glue
6. Twisted Cording/Braided Cording for embellishments
7. Ribbon
8. Needle/Perle Cotton for lacing
9. Scissors
10. Clothes pins

STEP ONE:
Get your basket (see my "Lining a Decorative Basket Tutorial" to line the basket - if desired)

AND draw around the top edge on mat board for the "lid". Cut out.

(Hint: cut out using scissors that you are NOT going to use on fabric, mat board will dull your scissors!)

Using the first circle as a template, draw around and cut out a second circle. You should have two circles to complete project!

STEP TWO:

Cut out two circles of quilt batting and glue one each onto each mat board circle.

STEP THREE:

Cover the circles in material, I use the "lacing method" for covering the circles as it makes the finish smooth and perfect! (I use Chenile Needles (#21) and Pearle Cotton DMC.)

STEP FOUR:

Take a length of ribbon (be generous!) and lay across the bottom circle...spread glue all around on bottom of circle and top circle. Sandwich it all together - as shown with the ribbon running through the center between both circles:

STEP FIVE:

Place clothes pins all around permeter of "lid" and set aside to dry:

STEP SIX:

Get stitched piece and set aside. Cut out shape of mat board that you want on your basket. On mine I wanted a circle - so I cut out one circle of mat board that will fit with 1-2 inches inside the "lid" of the circle already prepared above as my "lid". For my project this is a 6 inch circle (my "lid" is a 7 1/2 inch circle).

Cut out the mat board circle (after determining size) and then cut out TWO quilt batting circles and glue onto mat board circle

STEP SEVEN:

Mount the stitched piece onto the circle; again I used the "lacing method" to attach my stitched piece to the circle:

STEP EIGHT:

Glue the stitched piece circle onto the already prepared "lid". Add embellishments at this time...I put braided cording around the lip of my "lid" and twisted cording around my mounted stitched piece.

Now you have created a beautiful Tie - On Basket Lid!

(NOTE: this works for any size/shape basket! - as long as it has a "handle" to tie it on!)

Here's various views of my completed project:

ENJOY!

Lining A Decorative Basket

2008-02-05T09:13:00.001-08:00

Materials Needed:

1. Basket
2. Fabric (that you want to line your basket with)
3. Measuring Tape
4. Scissors
5. Straight Pins
6. Clothes Pins
7. Hot Glue Gun
8. Sewing Machine

STEP ONE:

Measure the circumference of the top edge of the basket (this will be translated into the length of fabric that you will need to cut). Here I'm showing you to measure the outside of the basket, just so that I could get a picture one handed, however, for the *perfect* fit measure the circumference of the INSIDE of the basket!

(Note: this is a circular basket, so we're talking "circumference" however, this method works just as well with a square, triangular, rectangular basket....any shape, just measure the top edge (INSIDE - all the way around) to find the perimeter of the basket for the perfect fit!)

STEP TWO:

Measure the depth or height of the basket from top edge to bottom

STEP THREE:

The circumference of my circular basket was 26 inches.

The height of my circular basket was 7 1/2 inches.

So I'm going to cut a rectangle of fabric in these dimensions:

Width of fabric: 26 inches (circumference of basket) + 1/2 inches (seam allowance)

Length of fabric: 7 1/2 inches (length of basket) + 1/2 inches (seam allowance) + 1 inch hem at top

Fabric dimensions: 26 1/2 inches wide and 9 inches long (as seen below):

STEP FOUR:

Fold over 1 inch of fabric to the wrong side and iron down neatly:

Sew the hem:

STEP FIVE:

Put the right sides together (by folding in half width-wise). Place straight pins all along the edge of the material where you are going to sew.....you will just be sewing a big "L" (you can click on the picture below to blow it up and see the straight pins and where I'm going to sew):

STEP SIX:

Do the sewing along the edge of the fabric using the 1/4 seam allowance:

When the sewing is finished you will have a "bag":

STEP SEVEN:

Fit the newly sewn "bag" into the inside of the basket and attach clothes pins to keep it in place:

STEP EIGHT:

Taking the clothes pins off a couple at a time, get your glue gun to the ready and lay a thin line of glue on the inside rim of the basket, immediately lay the fabric down on top and smooth.

(Work quickly as the hot glue will cool and then you'll have bumps under the fabric...you don't want bumps...you want it smooth!)

STEP NINE:

Admire your handy work!!! You have a lovely lined basket!

CLEANING HINT!:
If I've put something in my basket that makes it dirty I just lift out the liner by pulling the bottom up and out of the basket and shake or vacuum out - Piece of cake! Then push the liner back down into the basket!

Mattress Pincushion/Pinkeep

2008-01-09T11:31:00.000-08:00

Tutorial for Mattress Pincushion / Pinkeep

Items List:
1. Finished Stitched Piece
2. Fusible Interfacing (I used Pellon brand)
3. Iron
4. Scissors
5. Thread to match your linen/aida
6. Needle
7. Fiber Fill Stuffing (I used Polyfill brand)
8. Fray Stop Glue (I used Aleene's brand)
9. Complimentary Pearl/Glass Headed Pins

STEP ONE:
Make sure that you backstitch around your stitched pieces (TOP/BOTTOM/SIDES) this is where you will stitch the pincushion together to assemble it. Take some real time to count and re-count to make sure everything will match this is what mine looked like:

I backstitched 6 threads ( or 3 "blocks" if we're talking over 2 threads) from the design.

I also stitched side panels for the mattress pincushion; since my linen wasn't long enough for a single strip...I made two strips. I had to count and recount to make sure that my "strips" were long enough.

For instance my top and bottom designs were 46 x 53 stitches...therefore my strips were:

3 (over two (6 threads) away from design) + 46 (width of design top/bottom) 6 (over two (12 threads) between two side panel designs) + 53 (heigth of design top/bottom) + 3 (over two 6 threads) away from design) THIS EQUALS: = 111 in length (over 2 threads)

I then did the width as 12 (over 2 threads) for sides of mattress.

So FINALLY my "Strips" were 111 stitches long and 12 wide

After you get your backstitching done then you are ready to prepare your fabric for cutting.

STEP TWO:
Iron on the fusible interfacing:

STEP THREE:
Cut out the pieces...I would suggest cutting them at least 6 threads from the backstitched part.
Then use your finger and squirt a drop of FRAY CHECK or STOP FRAY glue and run along all sides of the pieces...let dry. (This will allow the linen not to fray and "lose" your backstitching when sewing the pieces together.) The glue part may be skipped, however I HIGHLY recommend it!

STEP FOUR:
Start sewing your mattress side strips to either top or bottom of the mattress pincushion by stitching together the backstitched seams.

Front View (showing the needle connecting the backstitched areas)

Inside View

Connecting the second strip by sewing down the side and then continuing down the side of the top

TOP COMPLETED!

STEP FOUR:

Start attaching the bottom piece in the same manner as you stitched the top piece.

STEP FIVE:

Leave one end open to stuff the pincushion with fiberfill!

Then finish closing the cushion, then add pearl/glass headed pins around the sides until:

Finally you have a beautifully completed Mattress Style Pincushion or Pinkeep!!!

Altoid Tin Finish Tutorial

2007-12-04T09:28:00.001-08:00

List of Materials Needed:

Empty Altoid Tin

Stitched Piece to fit on top

Matting Board to mount stitched piece

Matting Board to fit in the inside bottom of Altoid Tin

Quilt Batting

Tacky Glue

Embellishments (braided cording/complimenting material/etc.)

Scissors

Mat Knife

SUPPLIES:

1. GLUE quilt batting to top matting board and inside matting board

2. Mount and glue down top, bottom and sides of stitched piect to top matting board. Secure with clothes pins until glue is dry.

3. Cover top of tin with glue and mount top stitched piece onto tin:

4. Repeat the above steps with the inside matting board; instead of using stitched piece use complimentary material.

5. Make "no sew" band; as shown in pictures:

cut long, thin piece of material , but glue down both sides

Fold over top; finger press

fold over bottom; finger press; set aside to dry completely

Glue "strap" onto the bottom material mounted mat board piece...this "strap" will hold scissors in place.

6. Spread glue over bottom of tin and place material piece inside; you may embellish with a bit of cording around the edge - glued into place.

7. Take business card sized magnet and glue into top of Altoid Tin - magnet will be secure place for needles to rest. (this step not pictured)

8. Embellish the outside of tin with braided cording around the stitched piece and then around the bottom. I also added a beaded "handle" for ease in opening the tin (this was done by gluing beads on a straight pin and sticking the pin (with glue) into the stitched piece.

Now you have a beautifully finished Altoid Tin that you can take on your travels with you so that all your stitching necessities (needles, scissors, marking pins, etc) all enclosed in a beautiful little tin!

Finished tin

Inside (handmade, complimentary marking pins on end (right)

Vonna's Pinkeep

2007-10-03T09:20:00.001-07:00

PINKEEP FINISHING INSTRUCTIONS

Supplies:

1. Stitched Piece(s)

2. Complimentary backing material (if you've not got a stitched back piece)

3. Quilt Batting (hi loft)

4. Pearle Cotton - White/Ecru

5. Fancy Pearl Headed Straight Pins OR Straight Pins with fancy beads to place on the ends

6. Cording/Braiding/Ribbon - to embellish the sides

7. Tacky Glue

8. #22 Chenile Needle

9. Cutting Board

10. Mat Knife

11. Ruler

12. Clothes pins

13. Scissors

14. Mat Board/Cardboard

STEP ONE: Measure your stitched piece and decide what shape and size you want it to be. Take some real time and cut out TWO peices of mat board the EXACT same size.

STEP TWO: Cut 5 pieces of quilt batting the same shape and size as your mat board. Take the two mat board pieces and put a couple of dots of tacky glue on one side of each shape. Place one square of the batting to each glued side of the mat board as shown (leaving the remaining 3 pieces of batting to the side):

STEP THREE: Mount the stitched piece to the batting side of the mat board. Do the exact same thing to the second mat board using either another stitched piece or complementing material. Attaching the stitched piece to the mat board can be done by "lacing" using Pearle Cotton or by lightly "gluing".

*hint* ~ This is what I do....if it is a heart, circle, or odd shape I lace the stitching/material ~ as it is easier to get the stitched piece/material to conform and lay nicely when it is an odd shape. If it is square or rectangular I "lightly glue" the fabric down, just on the edges and let it sit just to get tacked down...which takes 15-30 mins.

While I'm waiting for it to get tacked down...I put clothes pins on the pieces so that the glue and board remain in contact with each other as shown:

STEP FOUR: While the glue is still "wet" or not completely dry (or if you've laced you go straight to this step!), I place the remaining three batting pieces in between the front and back pieces just like a sandwich, as shown:

STEP FIVE: I take good old DMC White (or ECRU) Pearle Cotton and a #22 Chenille Needle and start sewing (using a tight whipstitch) to "sandwhich" together all parts of the pinkeep as shown in the following pictures:

**The whipstitch is used for seaming fabrics, either right or wrong sides together. The stitches should be about 1/16" apart, and only as deep as necessary to create a firm seam. Leave a tail of thread when you start, and work several stitches over it to secure and hide the thread**

STEP SIX: Once you've gotten all the way around your pinkeep and secured your Pearle Cotton, then you're ready to embellish the sides of your pinkeep. Working on one side at a time, put a row of tiny sparing dots of Tacky glue, take your embellishing ribbon/cording/braiding and start laying it down on top of the glue. Make sure the whipstitching is covered and hid beneath the embellishment and that it is laying straight along the edge. Continue in the manner all the way around the pinkeep until all edges are completely covered.

STEP SEVEN: Now it is time to put in the pins. Put them however you want in how ever many numbers along the side of the pinkeep. This again can be accomplished by using coordinating pearlized pin heads pins or using a plain straight pin with fancy coordinating beads - whichever you prefer!

STEP EIGHT: You may decide that your pinkeep should have a ribbon bow at the top or some sort of tassel of embellishment this can be added at this time.

THE *BIG* FINISH: Now you can enjoy a perfectly made and beautiful Pinkeep to display in your home or give to a friend!

Here's a random set of pinkeeps I've made so that you can see different styles/embellishments:

Covered Stitchers Box with Pinkeep in the lid

2007-03-25T13:54:00.000-07:00

Supplies:

Stitched piece

Tacky glue

Box to cover w/ lid

Complementing fabric

Quilt batting

Cardboard (thick and thin)

Cutting supplies

Embellishments

Step One:

Cut out a piece of cardboard with the exact dimensions of the box lid. Cut out a piece of batting the same size. Glue Batting on the cardboard and set aside.

Next cut out 2 squares of thin cardboard (i.e. cereal/cracker box) the exact size of the inside bottom of the project box, set aside. This is what you should have after you've completed step one:

Step Two:

Cover the lid of the box. Lay the top of the box on the fabric...make sure there is 1 inch on each side extra to over the outside and rim of the box. Smear tacky glue all over the top and rim of the box. Lay the lid in the center of the fabric:

Cut squares out at each corner, so that when the fabric is folded over the rim of the lid it lines up and there is no over lap at each corner. Then trim all excess fabric around the lid so that it is flush with the edge of the rim of the lid (hint: DON'T BE SHY WITH THE GLUE!!)
Here is the completed covered box lid!:
Step Three:

Take the two pieces of thin cardboard and split one of them in half:
Take the fabric and wrap the cardboard squares completely in fabric, attach between the fabric and cardboard a piece of ribbon. Repeat this with both cardboard pieces. (be generous with the glue, the raw edges will be sealed with it, so no fraying will occur!):

Take the large cardboard and smear glue on one side, fold over the top edge of fabric but leave "wings" on either side as shown:

Glue the small ribbon embellished rectangles to the wings as shown:

Glue this "contraption into the lid of the box. Then glue a complementing piece of felt on the inside for pins and needles. The final look should be like this: (the ribbons are tied to keep the pinkeep closed.):

Step Four:

Covering the box. Lay the box on the fabric, cut two lengths of fabric that is about 1 inch wider than the width of the box. Make sure the length of the fabric with completely circle the box with about 0.5 inches of over lap:

Cover the outside of the box with glue and lay the fabric down the perimeter of the box (as seen in the picture below.) Cut out squares at each corner so the fabric will lie flat on the bottom and inside rim. Do the outside of the box first and do the inside of the box last as this will "hide" any overlap you have from the outside covering folded inside the box. Cover the inside of the box cutting the fabric at each corner and laying flat on the bottom of the box. At the edge of the box cut the extra fabric flush with the box rim. Glue will bind the raw edges and will not let them fray.

On the bottom of the box cut a heavy piece of card board and glue a peice of quilt batting on it and cover it and glue in the bottom of the box for a padded bottom. OR you can cut a piece of fabric to the exact dimensions of the bottom and glue the fabric to the bottom of the box. OR you can take a piece of cardboard with out the batting cover it and glue it into the bottom of the box...either way...the bottom inside of the box will be covered seamlessly and look professionally done and neat :)
Finally cut a bottom piece of fabric for the outside of the box and glue on the bottom so that the entire outside is covered in fabric and your excess fabric folded under the box is hidden. Again glue will bind the raw edge so that it will not unravel. At the end of this step you should have a completely covered box outside/inside.

Step Five:

Take the thick cardboard with quilt batting glued to it and center and mount the stitched piece to it, gluing the linen to the back of the board. When dry mount on the top of the lined box lid and embellish with twisted cording if desired:

Here is the completed embellished stitchers box complete with lid pinkeep:

Basket Lid Tutorial

2007-02-01T13:28:00.000-08:00

Items Needed:
1. Basket
2. Thick cardboard
3. Tacky Glue
4. Glue Gun
5. Staple Gun
6. Stitched Piece
7. Complementing Material to your stitched piece
8. Sewing Machine
9. Ribbon
10. Twisted Cording
11. Stain (optional)
12. Quilt Batting

STEP ONE - finding a suitable basket
**This is what the basket I finished started out as. I highly recommend looking at various craft stores to find deeply discounted baskets around holiday(s). No matter what they start out as you can change them with stain, paint and liners. In this example I:

1. Took out the green holiday liner, cut it up at the seams and made a "pattern" to make my own liner for the basket
2. I stained the basket a dark rich oak color using wood stain

STEP TWO - preparing the cardboard lid

1. Using a tape measure, get the "rough" dimensions of the basket top opening - where the lid will go.

2. Transfer these dimensions onto a piece of paper and cut out to use as a template; try the template out by laying it on the basket opening (does it fit? Holding one edge down - try "opening" it - will it open without hitting the handles?) Try your template "lid" out and make adjustments as necessary.

3. Lay the template on a thick piece of card board cut three different piece of card board to the same size.

4. Check to ensure the cardboard pieces are fitted correctly to the lid.

5. Glue 2 of the pieces together; set aside to dry.

6. Glue a piece of quilt batting to the top of the third piece; set aside to dry.

STEP THREE - making the lid straps

1. Using complementing material. cut 2 strips of material about 3 inces wide and 18 inches long (this does not have to be precise)

2. lay the fabric strips out face side down on a hard surface.

3. Run a line of Tacky Glue down the edge of the fabric from top to bottom; spread out with finger; fold 1 inch of the fabric over; smooth to make sure there is no wrinkling.

4. Run a line of glue down the folded piece; spread out with your finger; fold the other side of fabric over and smooth; this is now a "no sew strap" for the basket lid.

5. Repeat steps 2-4 with the second strip of fabric. When done there are 2 completed straps; set aside and allow to dry.

STEP FOUR - attaching the lid

1. Taking the two glued together cardboard pieces, lay it on the material and cut around it with 1 1/2 inches of extra fabric on all sides.

2. Smear one side of the double cardboard piece with Tacky Glue; lay material down on the glue side and smooth; flip over.

3. Smear Tacky Glue around the perimeter of the top of the double cardboard piece and stretch fabric up and glue down to secure; set aside to dry.

3. Take the basket and 2 strap strips; lay basket on the side that you want the lid to "attach" to; lay the fabric strips on the outside "rim" of the basket and using a staple gun - staple the straps with the length of the straps lying towards the bottom of the baskets as shown in picture below:

4. Put the liner in the basket and fit the liner over the stapled straps; once this has been done staple the liner edge to the straps toward the bottom hem of the liner to "cover" the staples from the previous step and to make sure the straps won't put up the liner; then fold the straps back up towards the lid over the stapled liner and glue down the straps where it touches the liner as seen in picture below:

5. Lay the "lid" on the basket and attach the straps to the lid using a copious amount of Tacky Glue to insure securing the lid, as seen in the picture below:

6. Set aside to dry...once dry the "lid" will now open and close as seen in the picture below:

STEP FIVE - mounting needlework to lid

1. Take stitched piece and using the batting glued cardboard piece; center the stitched piece and flip the cardboard over carefully without moving the centered stitched piece.

2. Smear Tacky Glue all around the perimeter of the cardboard and pull up the linen to the back securing the linen to the back of the cardboard; set aside to dry.

3. Once dry using either Tacky Glue or a Glue Gun attach the needlework mounted cardboard to the top of the basket lid.

4. Embellish with twisted cording as desired to hide the space between the lid and the needlework piece.

*Viola - you have a beautifully handcrafted basket with a lid to store all of your treasures! *

TIN BOX FINISH

2007-01-31T05:38:00.000-08:00

* all pictures are "clickable" so that you can see detail

Items you need:
1. Tin Box
2. Stitched Piece that will fit on the lid of the tin
3. Coordinating/complementing material to cover inside and outside of box
4. Tacky Glue
5. Glue Gun
6. Thin cardboard (i.e. cereal box)
7. Thick cardboard
8. Quilt Batting
9. Various embellishments as desired (cording, etc)

10. Scrap piece of paper for template making

STEP ONE - covering the lid:
1. Lay your tin lid on its side to measure the width of the lid on the fabric.
2. Cut strip of fabric that will totally wrap aroud the perimeter of the lid and over-laps the other end of the fabric about 1/2 inch and with about 1/2 inch extra width.
3. Spread Tacky Glue all around the perimeter of the lid and on top just enough for the extra fabric to be glued on the top of the lid.
4. Lay one end of the fabric on the lid and start working your way around the lid spreading the fabric out evenly so that there are no bubbles or wrinkling; continue in this fashion until the ends overlap and meet - gluing the ends securely; then cut the material at each corner a downward slit towards the lid,this allows the material to lay flat on the top of the lid - glue down the material on top of lid.
5. Set aside to dry - (I didn't get a picture of this step)

STEP TWO - coving the outside of the box:
1. Lay your box on its side on the fabric to measure the width of the strip of cloth you will need.
2. Cut the fabric about 1 inch wider than the width of the tin and long enough to go the perimeter of the box with 1/2 inch overlap of the fabric ends.
3. Spread the Tacky Glue all around the sides of the tin.
4. Lay one end of the fabric starting in the middle of the box and work your way around the perimeter of the box making sure the cloth is flat and no bubbles/wrinkling occur; Also make sure that you put your fabric below the place where your tin lid goes on...you do not want your fabric to be here, as the lid will not be able to be pushed on; the extra 1 inch of fabric should hang off the bottom of the tin. (*NOTE* it is nice if you have your "starting and stopping places of the fabric on the BACKSIDE of the tin and in the same place inside - outside - lid so that it can be hidden from the front view and it makes it all the same visually)
5. Once the material is glued and lying flat to the perimeter of the tin. Lay the tin on its top; cut at each corner a slit; then spread Tacky Glue around the perimeter of the tin bottom and lay the fabric down on the bottom working it so that if there is a ridge along the bottom the material lies flat against the ridge and then flat on the bottom.
6. Let dry.
7. *NOTE* If your tin has a design (like mine did) and shows the design through fabric...repeat this step once the first layer of material is dry. However the glue will actually be spread on the material and not the tin.
8. Once dry; cut a template from a peice of paper (using the bottom of the tin or lid). This template should be used to cut out a piece of material to glue on the bottom of the tin; glue this bottom piece onto the bottom of the tin..this hides the extra inch of fabric that was glued from the sides and makes the container covering seamless and tidy.

STEP THREE - covering the inside of the tin
1. Using the template you cut for the bottom of the tin; cut a peice of thin cardboard (cereal box works great and is what I used), then laying the template on the fabric cut a piece of material with 1/2 inch extra on all 4 sides (or all around the template).
2. Spread Tacky Glue on top of the cardboard; lay the material flat.
3. Flip the card board over and using Tacky Glue secure the cloth to the back of the cardboard. Once secure allow to dry and set aside.
4. Using the side of the tin again, cut a strip of material with 1 inch extra width enough to cover the inside of the box with 1/2 inch over lap at the ends.
5. spread the inside *sides* of the tin with Tacky Glue and lay the fabric starting in the middle and working all around the inside of the box ensuring the material is smooth and flat without bubbles or wrinkles.
6. In the corners, fold the fabric (sort of like wrapping a present) to lay flat at the corner and secure the extra 1 inch of fabric with tacky glue to the bottom.
7. Smear Tacky Glue all over the bottom of the tin and place your premade bottom in the bottom of the tin.(made above with the thin cardboard)

Your tin should now be covered inside, outside and the rim of the lid!

STEP FOUR - making the top of the tin lid with your needlework project
1. Take a sturdy piece of card board and using the template that you made for the bottom of the tin in the previous step(s); cut out a piece of cardboard that will fit on the top of the tin. (trim if needed)
2. Take Tacky Glue and smear (lightly) on the top of the cardboard; Place a piece of quilt batting on the top of the cardboard. Let dry.
3. Take needlework project and center the piece on the cardboard covered with batting; flip over (ensuring not to move the centered piece).
4. Smear Tacky Glue around the perimeter of the bottom of the cardboard and start gluing down the linen of the needlework project to the back of the cardboard.
5. Let dry.
6. Once dry, place the cardboard "lid" on top of the tin lid and glue in place using Hot Glue or Tacky Glue...whichever you prefer.

STEP FIVE - embellishing the tin
1. INSIDE OF TIN: I used a wee gold cording for the inside of the tin hot gluing with a thin stream all around the bottom perimeter of the tin (where the thin cardboard material covered piece was glued to the bottom) and I also did it around the top of the inside perimeter to hide the cut end of the material.
2. OUTSIDE OF TIN: I hot glued a flat braided cording along the perimeter of the tin where the edge of the tin lid will meet the tin when snapped into place.
3. LID TOP: Hot glue a rolled cording all around the perimeter edge of the needlework piece.

Viola you know own a beautifully covered tin box!

* A magnet can be placed on the underside of the tin lid (on the inside) to place needles!