How To Frame Your Needlework....

Framing Supplies
1. Frame
2. Foam Core cut to size of frame (acid free)
3. Glazing Points
4. Nickle Plated Pins (I use sequin pins) - nickle plating means the pins will not rust
5. Masking Tape
6. Double Sided Tape
7. Brown Backing Paper
8. Hanging Hardware - short shank screw eyes, stainless steel braided wire, frame bumpers, saw tooth bar hangers (if not using the screw eyes and wire).
9. Flat Head Screw Driver
10. Hammer
11. Ruler and/or measuring tape

Frames
I get my frames at my local Michael's Craft Store or Hobby Lobby Craft Store. I can get custom made frames and use their 50% off coupons on the total cost of the frame. You don't have to have the item "completely" framed (blocked, stretched and finished) to use the coupons. They will accept the coupons or will honor their 50% off framing events if you just purchase the custom frame only. I will also let you in on a little hint - ***Go ahead and ask them to cut the foam core to size for the frame (this saves you having to buy a big sheet of it yourself and the headache of cutting it) and ask them to put in the Framing Points (or Fletcher's Points) into the frame (these are the tabs that bend up and down to hold the piece in the frame). They will do this for free or if they do charge it is usually just for the cost of the foam core piece and is minimal.

I don't get glass with my frames because (and this is a personal choice) I like my stitching to be able to breathe. I know it has been debated over and over, but this is what I choose to do. Many people will ask about dust, and all I do is attach my upholstery attachment to my vacuum and vacuum over the piece once in a while if it is dusty. I also do not place my stitching pieces in direct sunlight, so I don't have fading. If you decide you'd like glass in your piece (and they will ask if you want it and/or mats) ask them to give you spacer tubes so that when you are framing you can place these spacers between the glass and the stitching - this allows there to be a small space between the glass and the stitching - so that the glass isn't pressed against the stitching enabling the stitches to be seen clearly and if you have beading or buttons there is room for them.


Step One:
Gather your supplies, I keep all my framing hardware in a large cookie tin so that I only have to grab one thing. I put down a couple of tea towels to work on, so that my frame doesn't get scratched when I'm assembling the whole thing together.

framing supplies

frame with foam core

sequin pins that I use

STEP TWO:
Begin to center your stitched piece on the foam core

Measure all four sides from the stitching edge to the foam core edge


Once the piece is centered, I place a pin on all four corners so that the stitched piece doesn't scoot around. I leave the pins in until I have some of the area stretched and pinned.


STEP THREE:
Start in the center and put in a few pins on all 4 sides pulling evenly so that it is stretched flat, but not pulled so much as to distort the stitching.



Keep adding pins along each side flipping from side to side to spread the tautness of the linen evenly. Frequently measure as you are doing this stretching and pinning to ensure that the correct spacing is being maintained. I cannot tell you how many times I have had to pull pins and redo this step! Measuring diligence is key!!!



Slow and steady progress, even tension in your stretching, wins the race :o)




Once all four sides look like this you are ready for the next step (before moving on to the next step, make sure you take final measurements of the margins making sure that it is equal on all sides and down the length of all sides - hold the piece out - visually check to make sure it looks "straight and squared". If something looks off - fix it NOW!)




STEP FOUR:
Lay your foam core mounted piece face down so it will look like this:


Using acid free masking tape (cheapest) or Artist's tape (same thing as masking tape just more expensive) fold the edges and tape down the excess linen to the back of the foam core - as shown:
NOTE: I have been contacted by a framing professional that has advised me that taping is NOT the way to tack the extra linen to the back of the foamcore, because supposedly the tape leaves a sticky glue residue on the fabric. She recommends lacing the fabric after pinning it.
I will reiterate, that I use an acid free/low tack tape and at times I have laced to keep the fabric under control in the back too. However, I choose to continue to use the tape. I am doing it (and you can see in the picture) on about less than 1/4 inch of my fabric. I always leave 3 to 4 inches of fabric on all sides. I am of the mind that it will last my lifetime and hopefully the lifetime of my children, after that...I don't care. So choose your poison on which technique to use. I personally think the tape is a nice, clean finish.

STEP FIVE:
Fit the mounted, taped down foam core piece into the frame




STEP SIX:
Now this frame wasn't custom, so I have to add Glazing Points (or Fletcher's Points if you have the Fletcher's Points Gun) these hold the piece into the frame tightly. Glazing points are CHEAP and they are used to hold glass into a frame usually, but they work just as well holding the foam core into the frame - if you get a custom frame this is what you will ask for put into the back prior to bringing it home.

Glazing Points

The Glazing points are put in with a flat head screw driver - just push them into the wood of the frame tightly against the foam core

STEP SEVEN:

EDITED TO ADD:

Some lovely ladies left me comments that you could actually wet the brown paper and then glue it to the frame with rice glue. Once dry the paper is drum tight. So I tried this. I cut the brown paper backing to size, dunked it in water until it was wet, then lightly dabbed it with a towel so that it wasn't dripping. I had put Aleene's craft glue (white craft glue) on the frame, just lightly not a whole lot and then put the paper on. Let it dry and it works PERFECTLY! Nice tight backing paper, sealed up wonderful! Thank you to Anna of The Stitch Bitch and Marie of Creative Thread for this wonderful technique!

~~~~~

Cut some brown paper into the correct size for the back of your frame, put a square of double sided tape on the backside of the frame

Put the brown paper flat against the frame to seal out dust from the back side and make the whole deal look neat and tidy!

STEP EIGHT:
Get your hanging hardware out (short shank eye screws and hanging wire - or if it is a smaller piece, I will mount on saw tooth bar hanging hardware - this is personal preference - each type works, you choose your favorite). The Screws usually just twist into the frame without using a drill, but I have had to use a drill on occasion to get it started. Place the eye screws in:

Once both screws are in then add the hanging wire, twisting it to make it taut:

I then cover my wire that is overlapped and twisted with a bit of masking tape and viola - your hanging hardware is on!

STEP NINE:

Add some frame bumpers

STEP TEN:

Admire your beautifully framed piece!

Beautiful!

The total cost of this frame job: $19.50 (I had a 40% off coupon)

Initial start up of gathering your framing supplies will add to the cost the first time, but after that your expense is only the frame. A economical way to enjoy your stitched pieces without the exorbitant price! And I think my framing looks as good as professionally done.

GOOD LUCK with your framing!