Basted and Baked Fabric Directions By Vonna

Please go HERE

Making a Dowel Tree

Gather These Supplies (to make 1 tree):
Wood Glue
Wooden Dowels in 3 different sizes (quanitites in parenthesis): 1/4 in (1), 5/16 in (1), 3/8 in (2)
One pre-milled Table Leg 28" (mine was: 28" Early American Table Leg)
One pre-milled Finial (mine was: Mediaum Craft Finial)
End Caps (for the ends of the dowels to make them decorative/hold the ornaments on - so they won't slip off the dowel)
Hand Drill
Drill Bits in the following sizes: 1/4, 5/18, 3/8
Saw
Bottom Piece for the stand (mine was cut from a larger board and measures 7 1/4" by 7 1/4"
Sandpaper
Measuring Tool/Square
Wood Stain
Hammer (optional)
Vice (usful - but not necessary)
*I got all my wood products at Lowe's and the total was around $35

Pictures of my Supplies:

End pieces for the dowels

Table Leg - Early American 28"

Bottom "stand" piece - 7 1/4" by 7 1/4"

Dowels in sizes 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8"

STEP ONE:

Taking your drill, but in the 1/4" bit (or one that will match the finial top screw) And Drill into what will be the top of the tree and attach the finial. (You can add a bit of wood glue on the end of the table leg if you want to ensure a firm attachment) Once completed set aside.

STEP TWO:

Cut your dowels with a small hand saw into the following lengths based on radius of dowels:

1/4" dowels: cut four into 5 1/2 inch lengths

5/16" dowels: cut four into 8 1/2 inch lengths

3/8" dowels: cut four into 11 1/2 inch lengths

Using your square/ruler make hash marks down the dowels at the appropriate lengths and then saw using your hand saw.

STEP THREE:

Using sandpaper - sand the ends of the dowels smooth

STEP FOUR:
Drill holes for the dowels. Each level of dowels will look like a "+" when you look from the top of the finial down. Make sure that when you are drilling the holes the various levels of + are staggered so that they aren't all on top of one other down the tree "trunk".

I put the 1/4 " dowels at the top, 5/16" dowels in the middle and the 3/8" dowels on the bottom.

*Here is where a vice would be handy if you have one!

Make sure that you go straight through the table leg and don't curve as you are drilling. All axis of the + should be perpindicular to each other. I have 7 inches in between the levels for my tree - just measure it and find the best locations for the levels of dowels for your tree.

STEP FIVE:
Once the holes have been drilled attach the base to the tree trunk

STEP SIX:

Drill small counter-sink holes into the decorative buttons or whatever you are putting on the end of the dowels of the tree. Don't drill through them, just enough to make an indention for the dowel to fit. Again I drilled four for each size of the dowel diameter.

STEP SEVEN:

Assemble your tree by using the wood glue to glue the dowels into their holes and the decorative end piece to the end of the dowels.

*Once finished with this step you should have an unstained finished dowel tree!

STEP EIGHT:

Stain it with wood stain, let dry, then add ornaments!

Now that's one fine looking dowel tree!

~~Congratulations~~ on your fine craftsmanship!

Cube Finish

Materials Needed
Tacky Glue
Straight Pins
Quilt Batting
Styrofoam Cube (either one premade or one you cut to the dimensions needed)
Scissors
Iron
Ribbons
Complimentary Material
Pearl Headed Pins

STEP ONE:

Take complimentary material and make a strip that will go the entire circumference of your cube and cut it wide enough that you can fold it over a couple of times with the resulting width the same width as the side of cube.

Then make a strip of tacky glue down the side of the fabric:

FOLD over that side and then make a strip of glue on the top, bottom and side of the other edge of the fabric:

FOLD that edge onto the other folded edge and make sure that the width matches the width of your styrofoam:

Lightly iron with a hot iron to flatten and make the edge straight; then set aside:

STEP TWO:

Cut two pieces of quilt batting to fit the front and back of the styrofoam "cube". Lightly glue the batting into place on the front and back:

This is what it looks like when this step is complete:

STEP THREE:

Center your stitched front onto the front of the cube (to "aid" in centering...place some pins around the stitched piece embedded into the cube so the fabric will not move - they will be removed once the stitched piece is attached permanently to the face of the cube):

STEP FOUR:

Choose a "side" to work on and lay a strip of tacky glue down the center:

Place straight pins along the edge of the fabric to hold in place (these will pins will stay in place for the lifetime of your cube - do not remove!):

STEP FIVE:

Continue in this fashion glueing and folding the fabric around (like wrapping a present) all the way around the cube:

*HINT* don't be shy with using the pins they add stability (in my opinion) to the peice!

STEP SIX:

Remove the pins from the stitched piece face and now you have a mounted front!:

STEP SEVEN:

Do the back the same way you did the front either using a stitched "signature" square or using complimentary material (the same or different that you used for the fabric strip in step 1). Here, I used a signature square for my back face:

STEP EIGHT:

Lay a strip of glue crosswise on the top (or bottom of the cube) - Here I did it on the top, but in my thinking on making this tutorial, all will be hidden and not as much attention to detail for hiding pin heads if you do it on the bottom:

STEP NINE:

Place the strip of material on top of the glue line and pin down with straight pins:

STEP TEN:

Tightly wrap the fabric strip around the cube until you get back to the starting point:

STEP ELEVEN:

Lay another strip of glue across teh edge of the fabric starting place:

FOLD the edge of the raw edged strip over and press down into the glue (this will hide the pin heads from the previous step):

Here's what it should look like up to this point:

STEP TWELVE:

Add a fancy bow with ribbons and hold into place by using pearl headed pins:

Series of pearl headed pins I placed to make a design!

It's complete! You have a lovely stand-up Cube FINISH!!!!

LOVELY!

Making a Bow

Materials Needed:
1. Ribbon
2. Scissors

STEP ONE:

Cut a length of ribbon off of the spool and set aside (you will use this later on)

STEP TWO:
With the ribbon still on the spool, leave a generous "leg" of ribbon and then make a loop:



STEP THREE:
Make a second loop on the opposite side:



STEP FOUR:
Make a third loop on the opposite side (the side that your first loop was on):



STEP FIVE:
Make your last loop on the opposite side (the side your second loop was):





STEP SIX:
Pinch the middle tightly together:

STEP SEVEN:

Leaving a generous "leg" cut the ribbon from the spool (the whole "bow" was made with the ribbon still attached to the spool):

STEP EIGHT:

Keep the ribbon legs on the same side and bunch the middle tightly:

STEP NINE:

Take the length of ribbon cut off at the beginning and place it on the work space, put the "bow" you are holding down on the work space in the middle of the length of ribbon:

STEP TEN:

Fold the length of ribbon in half (I have a pin holding it to my work space to take the picture - but this isn't necessary)

STEP ELEVEN:

Tie a double knot with the half length of ribbon:

and there you have a perfectly made bow!

*HINT*: This can be done with multiple lengths of ribbon (more than 1 ribbon); making more than two loops; different width, colors of ribbon...the sky is the limit!

*REMEMBER* This is not the only way to make a bow, this is just the easiest way I've come up with it. This tutorial are for those people that are struggling with a technique!

Tie - On Basket Lid

Materials Needed:

1. Basket (if you'd like it lined (as shown) please see "Lining a Decorative Basket Tutorial" on this blog)
2. Stitched Piece
3. Mat Board
4. Quilt Batting
5. Tacky Glue
6. Twisted Cording/Braided Cording for embellishments
7. Ribbon
8. Needle/Perle Cotton for lacing
9. Scissors
10. Clothes pins


STEP ONE:
Get your basket (see my "Lining a Decorative Basket Tutorial" to line the basket - if desired)

AND draw around the top edge on mat board for the "lid". Cut out.

(Hint: cut out using scissors that you are NOT going to use on fabric, mat board will dull your scissors!)

Using the first circle as a template, draw around and cut out a second circle. You should have two circles to complete project!

STEP TWO:

Cut out two circles of quilt batting and glue one each onto each mat board circle.

STEP THREE:

Cover the circles in material, I use the "lacing method" for covering the circles as it makes the finish smooth and perfect! (I use Chenile Needles (#21) and Pearle Cotton DMC.)

STEP FOUR:

Take a length of ribbon (be generous!) and lay across the bottom circle...spread glue all around on bottom of circle and top circle. Sandwich it all together - as shown with the ribbon running through the center between both circles:

STEP FIVE:

Place clothes pins all around permeter of "lid" and set aside to dry:

STEP SIX:

Get stitched piece and set aside. Cut out shape of mat board that you want on your basket. On mine I wanted a circle - so I cut out one circle of mat board that will fit with 1-2 inches inside the "lid" of the circle already prepared above as my "lid". For my project this is a 6 inch circle (my "lid" is a 7 1/2 inch circle).

Cut out the mat board circle (after determining size) and then cut out TWO quilt batting circles and glue onto mat board circle

STEP SEVEN:

Mount the stitched piece onto the circle; again I used the "lacing method" to attach my stitched piece to the circle:

STEP EIGHT:

Glue the stitched piece circle onto the already prepared "lid". Add embellishments at this time...I put braided cording around the lip of my "lid" and twisted cording around my mounted stitched piece.

Now you have created a beautiful Tie - On Basket Lid!

(NOTE: this works for any size/shape basket! - as long as it has a "handle" to tie it on!)

Here's various views of my completed project:

ENJOY!

Lining A Decorative Basket

Materials Needed:

1. Basket
2. Fabric (that you want to line your basket with)
3. Measuring Tape
4. Scissors
5. Straight Pins
6. Clothes Pins
7. Hot Glue Gun
8. Sewing Machine



STEP ONE:

Measure the circumference of the top edge of the basket (this will be translated into the length of fabric that you will need to cut). Here I'm showing you to measure the outside of the basket, just so that I could get a picture one handed, however, for the *perfect* fit measure the circumference of the INSIDE of the basket!

(Note: this is a circular basket, so we're talking "circumference" however, this method works just as well with a square, triangular, rectangular basket....any shape, just measure the top edge (INSIDE - all the way around) to find the perimeter of the basket for the perfect fit!)







STEP TWO:

Measure the depth or height of the basket from top edge to bottom

STEP THREE:

The circumference of my circular basket was 26 inches.

The height of my circular basket was 7 1/2 inches.

So I'm going to cut a rectangle of fabric in these dimensions:

Width of fabric: 26 inches (circumference of basket) + 1/2 inches (seam allowance)

Length of fabric: 7 1/2 inches (length of basket) + 1/2 inches (seam allowance) + 1 inch hem at top

Fabric dimensions: 26 1/2 inches wide and 9 inches long (as seen below):

STEP FOUR:

Fold over 1 inch of fabric to the wrong side and iron down neatly:

Sew the hem:

STEP FIVE:

Put the right sides together (by folding in half width-wise). Place straight pins all along the edge of the material where you are going to sew.....you will just be sewing a big "L" (you can click on the picture below to blow it up and see the straight pins and where I'm going to sew):

STEP SIX:

Do the sewing along the edge of the fabric using the 1/4 seam allowance:

When the sewing is finished you will have a "bag":

STEP SEVEN:

Fit the newly sewn "bag" into the inside of the basket and attach clothes pins to keep it in place:

STEP EIGHT:

Taking the clothes pins off a couple at a time, get your glue gun to the ready and lay a thin line of glue on the inside rim of the basket, immediately lay the fabric down on top and smooth.

(Work quickly as the hot glue will cool and then you'll have bumps under the fabric...you don't want bumps...you want it smooth!)

STEP NINE:

Admire your handy work!!! You have a lovely lined basket!

CLEANING HINT!:
If I've put something in my basket that makes it dirty I just lift out the liner by pulling the bottom up and out of the basket and shake or vacuum out - Piece of cake! Then push the liner back down into the basket!

Mattress Pincushion/Pinkeep

Tutorial for Mattress Pincushion / Pinkeep

Items List:
1. Finished Stitched Piece
2. Fusible Interfacing (I used Pellon brand)
3. Iron
4. Scissors
5. Thread to match your linen/aida
6. Needle
7. Fiber Fill Stuffing (I used Polyfill brand)
8. Fray Stop Glue (I used Aleene's brand)
9. Complimentary Pearl/Glass Headed Pins


STEP ONE:
Make sure that you backstitch around your stitched pieces (TOP/BOTTOM/SIDES) this is where you will stitch the pincushion together to assemble it. Take some real time to count and re-count to make sure everything will match this is what mine looked like:

I backstitched 6 threads ( or 3 "blocks" if we're talking over 2 threads) from the design.

I also stitched side panels for the mattress pincushion; since my linen wasn't long enough for a single strip...I made two strips. I had to count and recount to make sure that my "strips" were long enough.

For instance my top and bottom designs were 46 x 53 stitches...therefore my strips were:

3 (over two (6 threads) away from design) + 46 (width of design top/bottom) 6 (over two (12 threads) between two side panel designs) + 53 (heigth of design top/bottom) + 3 (over two 6 threads) away from design) THIS EQUALS: = 111 in length (over 2 threads)

I then did the width as 12 (over 2 threads) for sides of mattress.

So FINALLY my "Strips" were 111 stitches long and 12 wide

After you get your backstitching done then you are ready to prepare your fabric for cutting.

STEP TWO:
Iron on the fusible interfacing:

STEP THREE:
Cut out the pieces...I would suggest cutting them at least 6 threads from the backstitched part.
Then use your finger and squirt a drop of FRAY CHECK or STOP FRAY glue and run along all sides of the pieces...let dry. (This will allow the linen not to fray and "lose" your backstitching when sewing the pieces together.) The glue part may be skipped, however I HIGHLY recommend it!



STEP FOUR:
Start sewing your mattress side strips to either top or bottom of the mattress pincushion by stitching together the backstitched seams.

Front View (showing the needle connecting the backstitched areas)

Inside View



Connecting the second strip by sewing down the side and then continuing down the side of the top

TOP COMPLETED!

STEP FOUR:

Start attaching the bottom piece in the same manner as you stitched the top piece.

STEP FIVE:

Leave one end open to stuff the pincushion with fiberfill!

Then finish closing the cushion, then add pearl/glass headed pins around the sides until:

Finally you have a beautifully completed Mattress Style Pincushion or Pinkeep!!!